I’m getting into reloading all-brass .410 and I'm still learning about the process. I’ve noticed some references to forming cases from other calibers and using non-standard sizing and decapping methods rather than sticking to dedicated .410 dies. For the pros, which parent cases have you successfully formed, and what combos of sizing and decap dies are you using? Any insights on case prep, wall thickness challenges, or die modifications would be really helpful!
Any reloader pros?
- Thread starter DyLanSIG
- Start date
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- Jul 1, 2025
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- 71
While I am NOT a reloading pro I do have some experience. I have reloaded brass 410 shot shells before using an old Lee Loader. I have experimented using 444 Marlin and 303 British as an alternative. The 444 Marlin and 303 British will easily fire-form in a 410 chamber. The rim diameter of the 444 Marlin is smaller than the 410 and the 303 is slightly larger. The converted rifle brass rarely feeds in pump or semi-auto shotguns and is a single shot option most of the time. I have had success using brass 410 shot shells in a Remington 1100 and a buddy's Winchester 42.
The reason we used the converted brass was the lack of availability and high cost of 410 brass. The recent boom in 410 popularity led to two things, a shortage of 410 ammo and a surge of brass 410 reloading components. The brass 410 cases are easy to find online while the other two are listed as Out Of Stock on most sites. 410 brass cases are about $1.00 - $1.50 each, 444 Marlin is $1.50 - $3.00 each depending on vendor and 303 British is $0.50 - $0.75 if you can find it in stock.
Other concerns about converting rifle brass is the case thickness. This reduces volume and can cause pressure issues. Rifle brass must use rifle primers which greatly effect the pressures when fired. Signs of over pressure are harder to detect when using rifle brass in a shotgun. Standard wads and shot cups don't always fit in rifle brass. The shot volume is often reduced to about 3/4 factory 2.5" loads. (remember the reduced volume I mentioned)
I lost all my reloading gear when we were flooded during Hurricane Katrina. Now I only load for a few of my favorites and use a Lee Hand Press. If I got into the 410 again it would be to only load factory 410 brass and I would probably try to find an old Lee Loader. There are several "Survival" sites on YouTube that show how to reload 410 using various wood dowels and homemade equipment and tools.
The reason we used the converted brass was the lack of availability and high cost of 410 brass. The recent boom in 410 popularity led to two things, a shortage of 410 ammo and a surge of brass 410 reloading components. The brass 410 cases are easy to find online while the other two are listed as Out Of Stock on most sites. 410 brass cases are about $1.00 - $1.50 each, 444 Marlin is $1.50 - $3.00 each depending on vendor and 303 British is $0.50 - $0.75 if you can find it in stock.
Other concerns about converting rifle brass is the case thickness. This reduces volume and can cause pressure issues. Rifle brass must use rifle primers which greatly effect the pressures when fired. Signs of over pressure are harder to detect when using rifle brass in a shotgun. Standard wads and shot cups don't always fit in rifle brass. The shot volume is often reduced to about 3/4 factory 2.5" loads. (remember the reduced volume I mentioned)
I lost all my reloading gear when we were flooded during Hurricane Katrina. Now I only load for a few of my favorites and use a Lee Hand Press. If I got into the 410 again it would be to only load factory 410 brass and I would probably try to find an old Lee Loader. There are several "Survival" sites on YouTube that show how to reload 410 using various wood dowels and homemade equipment and tools.
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2025
- Messages
- 71
This thread made me start thinking about those old Lee Loaders and I went looking for one. The prices on E bay are outrageous.The same Lee Loader you used to find at flea markets and yard sales for $5-$10 are over $100. I don't want to get back into it that bad.
