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- Feb 21, 2025
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If you've experimented with various suppressor mounts, which one has been the smoothest for you?
What's the best suppressor mount for you?
- Thread starter Alan
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- Jul 1, 2025
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- 164
I am old and now I shoot more rimfire than anything. That means most of my suppressor hosts are threaded and it's just easy to move a suppressor from one to another.
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2025
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- 174
Totally makes sense! Direct threading is definitely unbeatable when it comes to simplicity especially for rimfire setups where you don’t have to worry about the heat and carbon buildup that you get with centerfire. Do you run into any carbon locking issues with your rimfire cans after long sessions, or does direct threading usually keep things manageable on the .22s?
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2025
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Carbon, vaporized lead, heat and all the other nastiness present in rimfire ammo can definitely cause problems with any threaded connection. The key is prevention. I start with clean mating surfaces and use a TINY smear of never seize or other thread compound. I only hand tighten the suppressor. I check it often during extended shooting sessions to insure it is still secure. Often times I will loosen it a quarter turn then re-tighten. Clean all mating surfaces after the session and reapply they TINY smear of anti-seize. I even put anti-seize under my thread protectors.
The suppressor industry has come a long way in the past few years. They are making them easier to disassemble by including wrenches. My first one used a 1/4" hex key in the endcap and I made a pin spanner to fit the muzzle end cap. The last one I bought came with proprietary wrenches for each end.
The suppressor industry has come a long way in the past few years. They are making them easier to disassemble by including wrenches. My first one used a 1/4" hex key in the endcap and I made a pin spanner to fit the muzzle end cap. The last one I bought came with proprietary wrenches for each end.
